I’ll summarise in advance. “Great restaurant. Great night. Crazy floods”. Now let me expand on that.
I went out for dinner. But I chose the wrong time to do it. Just like yesterday I went out just as the schools closed but for some reason I don’t understand, it’s not just the schools who get busy at that time of day. It becomes INSANE on the street. The footpaths are filled with thousands of male students in boring white shirts and girls in beautiful traditional style dresses but with pant legs for convenience.
But it’s the way the streets get crazy near the school that is really mad. The streets just pile up and noone moves. It becomes motorbike gridlock. Oh how I wish I had my camera there because it was something to see. There are just hundreds and hundreds of stalled motorbikes stuck in traffic within in a tiny radius. Apparently there are certain times you don’t want to go out in an area near a school, and I guess the worst of those are school opening and school closing hours.
But I struggled through it and headed off for something to eat. I wanted something different and I know there’s a limited number of “nice” restaurants in my area so I was prepared for the possibility of having to choose a tiny little non-English-speaking non-menu-possessing cafe where I had to walk in and just indicate I was hungry and let them serve me anything. But I wanted something substantial because I hadn’t eaten all day, so I sort of thought maybe I would look for something a bit upmarket. By upmarket in District 8 I mean an outdoor restaurant that might POSSIBLY have an English menu.
I walked past my favourite Singapore noodle place, but they’re a bit nosy and intrusive and the staff always buzz around and watch over my shoulder which is a little unprofessional and off-putting at times, and I walked past Cau Xanh but while I love them I’ve eaten everything they have and lately they haven’t had the meals I’ve ordered which is really annoying and I definitely wanted to eat something different. So I just kept walking. There was an indoor restaurant I’ve passed before that looks interesting. They didn’t have it tonight but I have once seen a sign outside that said “Live music” in English and I have always thought “Oh really ? Live music ? I do wanna go there”.
But it was dark and indoors and I couldn’t really judge what it looked like and I tend to pick these things on gut feeling. It looked OK but it didn’t reach out and grab me, so I kept walking. Then I saw another place I’ve passed before. There’s nothing visible on the front but a small darkened room, but a big sign proclaims in Vietnamese and English “Garden Restaurant” with a sign pointing off to the side
Hmmmmm, “Garden Restaurant” ? I like the sound of that. I peered down the side street and saw nothing much but it appeared the restaurant was located down the alley. I crossed the road and walked down. It was very large, sprawling over several hundred meters, having many lovely thatched pagodas out the front and large under cover areas and lots of seating and there were very few people there. There were a couple of Asian girls in pretty traditional dresses sitting outside who smiled at me and waved as I walked along. Ok. I’m sold. This place looks really cool.
I walked up and said “Xin chao” and a girl leapt up from her seat and said something to me. I had no idea what it was and I just smiled and assumed she was asking “Just you ?” and I raised one finger and said “mot”. I must have guessed right because she nodded and led me through the restaurant to a large pagoda with a table and 6 seats around it. I was thinking “Seriously ? You want me to take this whole pagoda just for myself ? Surely you have other people coming who need this more. Why don’t you give me a shitty little table in the corner ?”
But she just smiled at me and pulled a seat out for me and I figured “Oh well, I guess I’m getting special treatment because I’m a westerner and she wants to make sure I’m happy so she’s giving me this huge special pagoda normally reserved for larger groups to myself”. I didn’t complain. It was very nice.
Another guy came out and turned my glass up the right way. I think that was his only job. It was her job to put ice in it and ask me what I wanted to drink. I said “Saigon” and she looked at the guy uncertainly. He said “Saigon ?” and I nodded and said “Mot chai Saigon do” and he nodded and said to her “Saigon red stupid. You heard the man”. Well, I’m only guessing. She presented me with the menu and scurried off.
Oh damn. They may have a couple of English words on their sign outside but their menu is NOT in English. Not a word. But they have pictures. Out of every page that has maybe 20 items, there are about 5 pictures per page. So at least 1/4 of the meals are pictured so you’re not completely in the dark. And of course I’m not stupid and I know a few Vietnamese words. I know what “Bo Luc Lac” means for instance (it’s sauted beef cubes with vegetables), so even though that’s not pictured, I know what it is and I could order it if I wanted.
But I don’t want that. What do I want ? Damn. I dunno. They have such a great menu. I look at the boar page. Mmmmm, it has pictures of whole boars and you can actually order a whole boar for less than $40. Damn I bet that’d make a great night out. But I pick one of the meals of boar ribs of some sort. I point it out to the waitress and she repeats it to the waiter because I presume he’s here to make sure she doesn’t fuck anything up. Not that he can speak English either, it’s just that he has a penis therefore he’s superior to her and therefore she has to defer to him. (Hey, don’t put shit on me, I didn’t invent Vietnamese sexism I’m just telling you how it works)
He says something to me in Vietnamese and raises two fingers and asks “Hai ?” and I don’t really know for sure what he means but I can take a guess. The meal is very cheap, only 39,000 dong which is very cheap for a nice restaurant (that is, one a little bit classier than Cau Xanh) so he’s asking me if I want two servings. I nod and say “vang” because I just learnt that today and I want to say “yes” in Vietnamese even though I’m quite sure they’d understand me if I said “oogabooga” and nodded my head.
The meal comes and it’s interesting. It’s very bony meat, so I get why he wanted to give me two serves. It’s certainly not as big as it was pictured but I’m hardly concerned because even two serves are like $3.50 and when I try it, it’s very tasty. Sure it’s only small bits of meat on the bone but it’s very delicious, flavoursome meat and I pick it up with my chopsticks and shove each piece in my mouth and then chew up all the meat and then pull the bone out and put it gingerly back on my plate.
I’m always a bit nervous about doing this because this isn’t India and people don’t eat with their hands here. I haven’t observed people eating this sort of meal so I really have no idea how they do it, but I’ve eaten bony meals before like this and remove the bones with my hands and left them on the plate and noone’s looked at me in disgust like I’m crazy so I presume it’s fine to do it like that. And even if it’s not, I’m sure they’ll give me some leeway.
Not that I could even imagine another way of eating it. If you’re meant to pick it up with your chopsticks and nibble the meat off it without touching it, well frankly that’s just retarded and I’d rather do it my way and look out of place than try and do it some stupid way just for the sake of fitting in. If I was on a date I would pick a meal I understood so that I didn’t run the risk of looking stupid, but I’m here alone, so I don’t really mind that much. I’m going to reasonable lengths to look as least foreign as I can but you can’t push it to the extreme. Sometimes you just need to eat and stop worrying about whether you’re eating in the right way.
Because I’m a westerner I guess they want to be a bit more careful and the waitresses asks me before opening every beer. Perhaps they’ve been told that foreigners aren’t always used to this “drink until you say no more” custom, because she picks up every beer and looks at me and points to it and says something which includes the word “chai” so therefore must be “Another bottle ?” and of course I nod and she pours it for me.
Suddenly the heavens open up and rain falls from the sky like a cow falling out of an aeroplane (What ? I was out of beautiful metaphors so I went for a funny one. Get off my back !) and suddenly the sky, which has been darkening for hours is lit up with lighting and my ears are pummeled by the thunderous applause of the gods. Damn. When it rains like THIS in Saigon, you know it’s not going to stop straight away. I wish I had an umbrella. I’ve been offered one before by street vendors and refused. I have no idea why, it’s just that I sort of like being caught in the rain. There’s something beautiful and romantic about being caught in a thunderstorm in summer in Asia.
But this is SERIOUS rain. Within minutes, the little ornate carved gutters around my pagoda are overflowing and all the terracotta fish and frogs and hedgehogs in the garden are all drowning under several inches of water. They don’t have storm water drains in this part of Saigon. There are some central locations in the city where they have that, but certainly not in the suburbs, and I rapidly get the feeling I am going to be isolated in my tiny thatched hut island. Fortunately the tiny clay aqueducts around my pagoda are more than just ornamental and they prevent the rising water from spilling over the edge and lapping at my feet.
When I get up to go to the toilet, (which the waitress thankfully understood and directed me to immediately) I stepped out into the rain only to have another waitress nearby scream out “Anh !” and a guy ran over to me with an umbrella in order to protect me from the pouring rain, even though I only had to walk about 5 or 6 meters to the toilet. I mean seriously, that’s service.
You come into a place like this and pay a few dollars per meal and a few cents per beer and people will rush out to hold an umbrella over your head to stop you getting wet in the rain. Maybe it helps to be a westerner or whatever, but ultimately they assume I’m just visiting and probably figure they’ll never see me again, but they certainly go out of their way to make you feel welcome and while I feel slightly embarrassed and uncomfortable and want to say “It’s ok. I don’t care. It’s just water” obviously it’s what they do and it would be rude to reject their hospitality.
I return to my table and since the rain is still pouring down I ask for the menu again and flick through it. I try and pretend that I’m reading the textual side on the left, and to some extent I am browsing it to see if I recognise anything but mostly I’m looking at the pictures on the right hand page, but look, I think I’m pretty brave being here at a Vietnamese restaurant in District 8 where noone speaks English in the first place. I don’t mind taking a few liberties and comforts and ordering based on pictures. I can pick random meals from a Vietnamese menu any time. Tonight I’m going to take advantage of this nice place and order something nice where I know what it is.
They have these very impressive looking shish kebabs on their bo (beef) page. I looked at them before but I wanted something more exotic, and while the boar was delicious, it wasn’t very filling. The shish kebabs aren’t cheap though. 89,0000 dong for three shish kebabs is pretty damn expensive for District 8 in Saigon I think, but they do look tasty and wholesome so I order them. When they come (it takes quite a while) the waitress looks at me and holds up a fork to them and asks me a question. I have NO fucking idea what she asks me but she’s obviously asking something about the serving of them and I figure that if she’s asking me then it’s obviously some convenience that she’s offering me that people sometimes prefer. Whatever. If she thinks it’s a good idea, I’ll go along with it so I nod my head and smile and confirm that I want whatever she’s offering.
As it turns out all she’s asking is if I want all the ingredients removed from the sticks and placed on the plate, which she does for me and I’m quite thankful because I didn’t really want to pick them up and gnaw on them as is because it just doesn’t seem the done thing in Vietnam. I mean, I’ve never observed someone eating this type of meal here so I don’t know, and obviously there must be SOME meals they have to eat with their hands but I figure if she’s suggested that I take the contents off the stick then sure, that seems like a good idea and it’s going to make me look a little less like a caveman when I eat it.
The only thing is she puts a fork in front of me. I look at the fork and look at my chopsticks and then at the fork and figure “oh well, she’s given me a fork so maybe I should use that”. It’s fucking useless. God forks are shitty utensils. Whoever invented that shit was a total dick. I sit there stabbing at this piece of apricot trying to impale it on a fork and just give up and throw my fork down in disgust and pick up a pair of chopsticks. I guess this is the point that I realise I finally am as good as bloody Asian because using a fork feels totally fucking foreign and ineffectual to me and when I pickup the chopsticks I have no difficulty whatsoever getting the contents of my plate into my mouth. Forks be damned, chopsticks are easier to use and more effective. Anyone who doesn’t think so just hasn’t bloody tried them.
The shish kebabs are better than I could have imagined. My parents make great shish kebabs at home on the bbq with capsicum and onion and apricot and beef and tomato and other stuff but to be honest, there’s always something I don’t really like like mushrooms and such and I end up picking a bunch of stuff off and leaving it on my plate. But these ones are fucking fantastic. Perfectly cooked with a tiny bit of singing on the edges of the onion and capsicum, with juicy apricot and … well…. the meat ? It’s not beef. It can’t be. It simply cannot be beef.
Beef does not come in such a tender form. Look I’ve had Japanese Kobe. It’s not like this. This isn’t beef. It’s lamb. And it’s probably THE most well cooked and juicy lamb I have EVER eaten in my life, even in New Zealand. It is A-Maze-Ing. Every morsel just melts in my mouth and I moan in pleasure and savour every last bite. It’s seared and ever so slightly and well-done on the outside and pink and juicy in the middle. Seriously, how can you make a shish kebab that is so good that the person eating it moans in pleasure ? I have never had that before. This is the shish kebab of the GODS it is so good.
It’s so good in fact, that I am reluctant to eat it all at once. I leave several pieces of delicious tender lamb sitting on my plate so that I can eat them later when I’m ready. Fortunately in Vietnam they would never DARE take your plate away without your permission. Even if it’s totally empty they will ask your permission before they remove it, just in case you want to pick it up and lick it clean or something. I dunno, but even if they can’t speak your language, they won’t take your plate without confirming you are DEFINITELY finished your meal, which is good.
I hear this person calling out. Not yelling, just crying out a little louder than everyone else. Since my laptop battery has gone dead due to the long rainstorm which has kept me here longer than intended I don’t have much to do except look around and I glance over and about 6 meters away in the main pavilion area there is this young Asian girl frantically waving at me and saying “Hello !!!!!!!”
ROFL. I thought maybe I had escaped that tonight by sitting alone so far from everyone else but apparently not. She saw me from far across the restaurant and was like “OMG I HAVE to say hello to that foreigner ! I’m going to yell out to him until he hears me and says hello because that’s going to make me so happy if he says hello to me”.
When I finally notice her and realise that she’s the one who’s been yelling out for half a minute to get my attention I feel like facepalming but I just grin in embarrassment and wave back to her and say “Hello”. She quickly slaps all her nearby friends and says something to them and points to me as if to say “The foreigner said hello to me !”. LOL ! A couple of them glance in my direction and one says something to her which is probably “Jesus girl, get the hell over it. There’s plenty of foreigners in the city if you are really that obsessed with them. What’s so special about this one ?”
But I catch her looking at me several more times after that and she waves to me a few times and it’s both embarrassing and charming at the same time. I mean if I ever needed a sign that a Vietnamese girl was into foreigners, this girl has one hanging over her head in 20 foot high flashing neon that says “I TOTALLY DIG WESTERN GUYS”. It’s sort of embarrassing, but it is pretty cool and I do feel really flattered. Man if she was alone and wasn’t with a table full of Vietnamese guys I would totally be like “Hey, come over and sit with me and we’ll have a beer”.
The rain is still coming down, but it begins to almost imperceptibly let up and I wonder if it might be possible to make a break for it soon. I consider the possibility of catching a taxi, but the thing is I don’t know the address of this place and finding it out would be awkward and I don’t really feel like asking them to call me a taxi because I don’t like to impose and look like an idiot who can’t take care of himself. I mean on this occasion I know it’s only going to be about 90 cents to my home, but I figure it’s just not worth the effort. I’m not scared of rain and it HAS to let up eventually right ?
I look at the road which is now well and truly under water. I see someone walk down the road and it’s at least a foot and a half deep. No big deal though, right ? 18 inches is nothing. I order another beer and decide to wait and see what happens. If it doesn’t let up in another half hour I will swallow my pride and ask them to call me a taxi. But the rain doesn’t let up and I’m sitting there looking out in amusement at the warm August monsoon rains falling around me and turning the streets into rivers.
I look around too. For some reason one of the girls at the table with the girl who greeted me is apparently special. One of the staff and one of her guests nearly fall over themselves providing an umbrella to protect her from the 6 inches of uncovered awning between the main building and their building. Why ? Who is she ? She’s definitely not pretty. Not even remotely. I could pick a million girls prettier, but apparently despite being barely 20, she commands some sort of fearsome respect. I’m fascinated, wondering who she is and why people twice her age are tripping over themselves to pull out her chair and protect her from the rain. WHO IS SHE !??! I only wish I knew. She’s obviously very important for some reason and I suspect everyone at the table is probably there either at her invitation or in her honour.
Finally though, the rain dies down enough that I figure that I can leave. Sure, it’s still raining steadily, but it’s not like I’m afraid of getting wet because I’m not THAT far from home and if I arrive home soaking wet, so what ? I can take a hot shower and change my clothes and be fine. But mainly I don’t want to look odd, and Vietnamese people don’t normally walk in the rain. They will shelter under an awning in even a little bit of rain so I’d look pretty weird if I walked home in the middle of a monsoonal downpour.
But it gets gentle enough that I think it’s safe to leave, so I turn to the waitress who’s basically been hovering nearby the entire night and say “Tinh Tien ?” and she immediately nods and runs off. Ahh. It’s quite nice to be understood. Sure I could have pretended to write on my hand and said “Bill” and she would have understood me but given me a second glance and maybe a question to confirm, but it’s nice to just be able to say exactly what you want and for them to understand you and run off to do it. It’s just more relaxing to be able to communicate clearly without confusion and guessing and I love that I can do that.
I remember last night at another restaurant when I was meeting with this American guy over dinner and I called to a waitress and said “Em oi !” and he said “Wow you must have been here a few times if you know their names” and I looked at him oddly and said “How long have you lived here ?” and he said “Bit over a year” and I said “And you seriously don’t know what that means ? That’s how you address a younger person. You say ‘Em’ for a younger person and ‘Anh’ for an older person. How could you not know that ?” and he sorta looked at me embarrassed and said “I guess I don’t come into Vietnamese places” and I just shook my head in wonderment at the idea that you could live here for an entire year and not pick up on the most common way to address a younger waitress when surely he must see people do it every single day.
When the girl comes out with the bill she’s wearing these tiny purple thongs to suit her tiny Vietnamese feet and even in the restaurant there’s easily 6 inches of water in some spots between the awnings and she slips and very nearly goes arse up. As soon as I realise she’s slipped my hand flies out to grab hers but fortunately (or unfortunately) she puts her hand behind her and the railing of the pagoda saves her and she lets out this huge sigh of relief. Had she been standing one foot to the left, nothing would have saved her from going arse up in half a foot of water which would have been incredibly embarrassing for her.
Well, unless I’d have hopefully caught her as she fell. I can’t but wish that had happened and I had caught her hand and prevented her falling into the puddle. Ahhh, that would have been romantic, wouldn’t it ? I reckon if I’d done that I could probably ask her for her phone number and she wouldn’t have been able to refuse. Sadly circumstances didn’t make that happen and she saved herself before she grabbed my hand. Oh well. One can dream, can’t one ?
She brings me the bill and it’s almost exactly $10 Australian. Ok so that is quite a lot, but to be fair this is a nice place and I’ve had a double serving of boar and a serving of fairly expensive lamb shish kebabs and probably nearly a dozen beers so I can’t say I’m really disappointed. I actually think that’s a fantastic price to basically rent this little pagoda to myself for the entire evening and get waited on hand and foot and have people shelter me from the rain on my way to the toilet and top up my beer every time I take a sip and serve me peanuts in between meals and … god I can’t even remember the things they’ve done for me tonight, but for $10, that’s pretty fucking amazing, even for Vietnam.
When I get up and leave, the girl at the table who yelled out to me sees me go and waves frantically and I grin in embarrassment and wonder why she cares. I’m not even an attractive guy. Maybe I have an ok face, but I’m just some overweight Aussie with nothing really special going for him, but this girl is waving to me like I’m Justin fucking Bieber and it’s a little weird to be honest, but I am a little bit used to it because it does happen a fair bit, so it’s not totally crazy. Just a little bit odd from my perspective and a tiny bit embarrassing. The idea that I could be embarrassed by a pretty girl getting my attention like that is something that I could have never comprehended before I came to Vietnam.
I tell you what though, when I get up the road I appreciate the magnitude of the rainstorm. Sure it may have only rained for maybe 4 or 5 hours, but it was solid, torrential rain, and streets in Saigon don’t have storm water drains except in key areas in the city. Around here, the main roads are just built up a little higher so that the water flows off into the side streets, which is exactly what it has done.
I am stunned as I walk past street after street that have turned into deep rivers and parking lots that have turned into lakes. I mean there are literally handlebars peeking up through the water, indicating that there is at least three foot of water in these little streets that have gathered in just a few hours. Holy shit. What would happen if it rained for a week solid like it did during the Brisbane floods ? Even the second storey houses here would be underwater. Millions of people would be displaced. It would be a massive natural disaster. Whoever it was many months ago that tried to tell me that Saigon didn’t have floods more than a couple of feet high was a fucking retard. They have those sort of floods after a mere few hours.
When I get to my area though, my mind is blown. Sure, it was cool looking at the streets to the left of Pham Hung, all underwater by a couple of feet, but when I get into my neighbourhood it’s basically fucking Venice. There is NO land in sight. Every street is far under water and there is nothing dry to be seen and the water is up past steps and lapping inside the ground floor by the looks.
I see two guys standing watching a young kid wade through the water. He’s up well past his waist. Shit. I have to walk through that to get home ? I pull my mobile phone and wallet and everything out of my pocket and slip it all inside my laptop sleeve which I hold above my head as I wade through the water. I must admit, it is beautiful. Don’t even try and say “It’s full of dysentery ! You know they leave their rubbish in the street !” because I just don’t care. There is nothing that could make THIS quantity of water toxic. This is a flood. You could pour anthrax into this water and it wouldn’t hurt anyone due to the massive quantity of water.
When I waded through that water in the middle of my street I was literally up to my waist. It was lapping around the top of my shorts. I cannot believe that in no more than 5 or 6 hours, this whole street has become three foot under water. That’s amazing. But it’s pretty cool. I mean sure, under normal circumstances I would probably be annoyed with this and just want to get home dry, but come on… I’m in the middle of a beautiful, warm summer monsoon thunderstorm of the sort I’ve never really experienced before and not only is the rain itself beautiful and warm but were there not the occasional bag of rubbish floating in it, I would genuinely jump in and swim in this water because it felt so good.
As I get up my street though it gets shallower and by the time I get to my house it’s actually completely above the water level. I guess my apartment block has been built on higher ground for good reason. I probably pay 20% more than an apartment down the road on the lower land for that reason alone. When I open the side gate to my apartment and slip inside the door which has been kindly left open I sigh and try and brush some of the water off me so that I don’t climb the stars dripping wet.
When I get into my apartment and close the door I strip my clothes off and jump into the shower just so that I know I’m safe from whatever was in that water. To be honest, I’m not in the slightest concerned and I would have happily swum in that water (though not put my head underwater) without washing, but just for the sake of all the people who will freak out if I don’t, I take a shower and make sure I’m clean and sanitary before I emerge warm and dry and throw myself onto my bed with a sigh.
Was that another good night ? Yes it was. That was a GREAT night. Sure, I may have spent $10 when I could have eaten and drunk at some shitty little rice or noodle place for a third of the price but it would have been difficult and annoying to explain what I wanted and do basically anything. But that place had free wifi, staff who respected you and wouldn’t even DREAM of making fun of you just for being different, fantastic food the quality of which I would place alongside that great Brazilian place in Q.3 at which I spent a million dong rather than 220,000 like I did here, and I was treated to a special VIP-style pagoda all to myself.
It was awesome. I loved it and if I get a chance, that is the FIRST place I am going to take any friends who visit my area. Sorry Cau Xanh, I am fond of you, but you’re basically just a cheap drinking and karaoke place that happens to have alright meals. This place was really something special and it just goes to show, your gut knows best and when it sees somewhere and says “Go in there. I think that place looks good” then you should listen to it, because it’s probably going to be right.
So thanks to the wonderful staff of the restaurant who’s name I don’t even know for keeping me dry. Thanks to the waitresses for paying so much attention to me. Thanks to the chefs for serving me literally the tastiest lamb that I have EVER eaten. And um… I dunno. Thanks to District 8 for being the sort of area you can even FIND a place like that !
Peace out and if you’re bored and want a great meal and this sort of experience, catch the first flight to Saigon and head to District 8. You’ll have to be brave, but it will be rewarding I can assure you.